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This is a city that’s always had a boho air to it, but in recent years Budapest’s alternative scene has flourished, with the alleys of the Seventh District — once the Jewish Quarter, now hipster central — filled with everything from vintage shops to raw food bars and coffee houses.
“It’s the most authentic part of the city now,” says Fanni Sarkadi, a fashion designer who moonlights as a tour guide for Budapest Underguide, a company whose tailor-made tours shun obvious sightseeing in favour of places you might not otherwise venture to — like the new street-food stalls and hidden synagogue that Fanni led me to.